The dark unassuming doorway of Riad El Fenn, off a dusty derb five minutes from the main square in the Medina, does little to give away what lies beyond. Even as you enter the shaded ruby entrance, there's no indication that every corner you turn within, reveals a contrasting visual feast. Labyrinthine, with two inner courtyards, each patch of this nine-roomed property is completely different; eschewing novelties or gimmicks for stylish modern-day quirks, a few hi-tech enhancements and quality traditional furnishings. Antique carved wooden doors, green-tied walkways, tadelakt with ivory detail, Forties chairs, black marble, a screening room, a rose garden... look up or down, left or right, no angle is the same on the eye.
The property was first bought as a near-derelict ruin in February 2002 by Vanessa Branson and Howell James, and the key to their success was drafting in husband-and-wife team Frederic Scholl and Viviana Gonzalez. Launched without a PR fanfare it made waves as soon as it opened at the end of 2004, due to its spectacular design and innovative looks, and earned instant status as the place to stay for creative types.
Part of Frederic's assignment was to capture each of their personalities within the interior decor, and designs and sketches were couriered back and forth between Marrakech and London. Initially he turned down the opportunity to be at the helm, but once Vanessa had convinced him it would be an adventure and not a project, Frederick put together a team, choosing them according to their values. "I was more interested in being creative, and didn't want somewhere overdesigned, keeping off track from what's been done in Marrakech," he explains. He selected a local architect who would know what building permits were needed, and sat with them at the computer, feeding ideas for colours, materials, layouts, until the plans were drawn up.
Originally a crumbling old family home built by a caid (a trader, with duties within the community) in 1825, Frederick explains that when the contractors heard the word 'Branson' they "rubbed their hands together". So how did he manage to get the work done at a reasonable price? "Because I'm an asshole," he says earnestly. He does not suffer fools, or let anyone take him for one, and his no-nonsense approach is clearly what got the job done so effectively. Before studying psychology, Frederic studied mechanical engineering, which also stood him in good stead. "I was too intellectual as a kid. I dismantled everything." Having lived on boats for six years, Scholl is also well practised in being self-maintained. He cut his teeth in the hospitality industry in Kenya when he and Viviana catered to upmarket travellers at the eight-roomed luxury hotel and wildlife sanctuary, Hippo Point. This experience in providing great dining as well as accommodation has also seeped into the restaurant at El Fenn, which has earned praise for its elegant mod Maroc cuisine.
Each bedroom at El Fenn is unique, and even the smallest room has its own charm. It's perfect for children staying with parents in the room next door; even 6'3" Sacha Baron Cohen was happy to squeeze into this tiny corner rather than miss out on a spell at El Fenn. The most 'rock star' suite is the 'Douira', a duplex with a cosy cubby to watch TV from, a master bedroom on the mezzanine upstairs, and then its own terrace with a plunge pool at the top. But it's the ochre- and sienna-hued library that best captures the vibe and style of El Fenn: hand-stitched camel leather floor tiles, wood-paneled walls, a floor-to-ceiling selection of design books and biographies to read by the open fire, and two iBooks open for guests to choose their iTunes or check their email.
One of the most admirable feathers in El Fenn's cap is its culture credentials. It's especially fitting then, that the name of somewhere festooned with modern artworks by the likes of Bridget Riley and Fred Pollock, should translate as 'fine arts' in Arabic, and in slang mean 'hip'. "Vanessa is very involved in contemporary art world," explains Frederic. "Five years ago, she set up the Wonderful Fund in order to start a collection. She received £3,000 from 15 friends over five years and bought 100 works." So it is that one of their goals, has been to put more back into the local community, and after a successful collaboration on the launch of the Arts in Marrakech (AiM) festival last autumn, and an exhibition at the main museum that lured 50,000 art lovers, Vanessa Branson is patron to Marrakech rather like Peggy Guggenheim was to Venice.
As impressive as the aesthetics are here, it's also the exceptional service that sets Riad El Fenn apart from the ever-growing legion of style hotels. It has 20 staff, four in the kitchen, two in the spa, six chambermaids, four waiters, two porters, Salma ("she's front of house - very cool and sexy") and one person who does all the shopping and maintains good relations with all the neighbours ("Said, came with the house, and when I first arrived alone we would sit and eat tagines together."). Indeed, Frederic attributes a lot of the success and personality of El Fenn to the people who work there everyday. "The Moroccans are genuinely so integrating, cheerful, friendly and welcoming. We hired about four or five people a month before the house opened and it was still a building site; everyone got so emotionally involved and showed such dedication." He praises the proximity of Moroccan life within the Medina too, not just in terms of the energy, but the fact this can be a practical benefit, as you have plumbers and carpenters right there on your doorstep. That's the beauty of El Fenn; it's far too special to be described as a home-from-home in its appearance. Yet, thanks to the warm atmosphere and inspiring aura, guests feel part of the family.
