Even in a city as lacking in showy sign-posting and neon look-at-me hotel frontages, you'd never imagine that the nameless wooden door and barely visible bell next to it make up the entrance to a first-class hotel from the same creator of 42 The Calls (Leeds), the Scotsman (Edinburgh) and Hotel de la Tremoille (Paris). But then Jonathan Wix's spectacular boutique Marrakchi hideaway is full of surprises. Where else could you find an in-room marble fountain, which doubles as a rather extraordinary bathtub?
Wix first bought the property in 2001 because he was fascinated by the culture and architecture in Marrakech and he thought it would be fun to have a holiday home in the heart of the medina. Only after it was almost finished did he consider turning it into a small hotel and in 2003 he opened the doors to five unique sumptuous suites and a white-marble hammam.
Originally a two-part single-storey riad. Wix enlisted the services of architect Christophe Simenon. The two worked closely together with Simenon adapting Jonathan's design ideas to make them workable within the context of 400-year-old Islamic architectural constraints. All materials, wherever practical, were purchased locally, but in the end it still cost in excess of £150,000 a room - "well over the norm for the basic riads that the press keep telling us can be purchased for £20,000," remarks Lynn Perez, its Canadian manageress.
All riads, meaning 'garden house', are centred around a courtyard. Their thick walls not only keep out the heat or cold, but as they are constructed facing inwards they also promise an incredible tranquility, in spite of the hubbub outside. What isn't so standard about this particular medina house, Riad Farnatchi, is the pristine decor, sympathetic and intelligent lighting and unrivalled level of service. A place where intricate antique woodwork and delicate hand-carved plasterwork are complemented by modern Moroccan artwork and a gamut of hi-tech extras.
The design brief was to provide the most sophisticated European comforts in a traditional historic setting - and that's exactly what was achieved. A seven-metre emerald-green tiled heated pool makes up most of the first bougainvillea-framed white courtyard, along with cream sofas and glass coffee-table in a lounge area displaying a 'just-so' arrangement of flowers and books indicative that this is an upmarket temple devoted to relaxation.
The suites are as enormous as they are a delight, enjoying the benefits of modern-day luxury without any compromise to the air of classic elegance. "We offer every guest sufficient private space to make it feel as though they have sole occupancy of a lovely holiday home," remarks Lynn. The bathrooms boast Philippe Starck fittings and under-floor heating, benefiting from a combination of overhead latticed skylights and traditional lanterns. And switch on a flat-screened television here and there's no vulgar fumbling around for a DVD and player; such is the attention to detail, that as well as satellite TV, they have recently installed a virtual library of hundreds of films for guests to download at the tap of a button.
A vital ingredient in the operational success of Farnatchi is Perez's energy and enthusiasm. "All too often in Marrakech, people get caught up with the design, and the service is neglected," she remarks, when asked to pinpoint some of the elements that make Farnatchi so special. "Riads tend to be either painfully trendy or painfully uncomfortable. They don't often combine style with taste, let alone first-class plumbing and electrics."
Perez points out that in a country lacking a culture of indulgence, it was only as recent as the 90s that Marrakech started to find its feet as a credible luxury destination.
While this intimate hotel celebrates its location's heritage, she also indicates that while they have been careful to play on the local strengths, they have also reworked a few weaknesses, as in the case of furniture.
"A lot of the traditional Moroccan furniture is just not designed for comfort," she explains, highlighting the need to commission locally-made pieces especially for Farnatchi, such as comfortable armchairs, chaise longue and sofas - "things you can sink into".
Personnel has been another area dragged into line with their 21st-century, five-star sensibilities. "Although there is a huge pool of unemployed, there is a lack of trained staff in Marrakech. The first job of a hotelier is to instill pride in its staff," says Perez. So how did they achieve this? "Moroccans have a genuine sense of hospitality and the important thing is to extend this into the workplace," she explains.
"We've approached Farnatchi as a private residence, and so the staff feel as if guests are staying in their home. Each employee is encouraged to stay here as a guest - it's the best way to find out how long it takes from when you request a mint tea to when it arrives, or whether you have to go looking for someone. It helps staff develop a deeper understanding of the guest's needs and expectations." Perez explains that they consider each worker essential to the guest experience, and any letters or feedback are translated into Arabic and shared with everyone, acknowledging how words of encouragement and thanks for a job well done are fantastic motivators.
Having clearly figured out the secrets to a successful riad, what are their plans for the future?
"Three more suites, a second dining room, and a country club with spa, pool, tennis and croquet, just outside the city, for exclusive use by our eight guests," she explains with matter-of-fact understatement.
So if you thought they'd have a tough job boosting their already dazzling 'wow' factor, you'd better put that in your hubbly-bubbly and smoke it.
